Why Is My Sunscreen Pilling? 

Is there anything worse than the greasy, gritty feeling of sunscreen?  Oh, right, a sunburn! 

In the small list of reasons that people would rather skip the sunscreen, pilling is at the top.  It occurs when your skincare products clump into tiny balls or flecks after application, disrupting the smooth finish you desire. Understanding why this happens and how to prevent it can greatly enhance your skincare regimen and SHOULD encourage you to continue applying SPF every day! 

What Causes Skincare Pilling? 

Skincare pilling typically arises when different product layers fail to interact harmoniously due to their varying formulations. Most skincare products are emulsions, which blend oil-like ingredients with water-based components using emulsifiers. When these layers are applied one over another, especially if too much product is used, they can react and separate, leading to pilling. 

Types of Emulsions 

1. Oil-in-Water: These emulsions have water as the main component with tiny droplets of oil suspended within. They often have a lighter, more watery texture found in serums and lotions. 

2. Water-in-Oil: Conversely, water-in-oil emulsions contain water droplets within an oily base. These products are typically thicker and include creams, ointments, and many sunscreens. 

Interactions That Cause Pilling 

When oil-in-water and water-in-oil formulas are layered together, their conflicting compositions can cause them to repel rather than blend. This is exacerbated by the presence of film-forming ingredients or silicones designed to create a smooth barrier on the skin's surface. When the emulsion breaks due to incompatible ingredients, these substances clump together, resulting in visible pilling. 

Makeup Over Sunscreen 

Makeup can also pill over sunscreen for similar reasons. Many long-wearing makeup products have an oil base, and even sunscreens labeled as "oil-free" can contain ingredients like zinc oxide or silicones that interact with makeup. When silicone-based foundations or powders are applied over sunscreen containing similar ingredients, they can interact and form clumps. This underscores the importance of choosing makeup products that are compatible with your sunscreen, and to allow time for absorption before applying makeup over sunscreen.  

 Tips to Prevent Skincare Pilling 

1. Select Complementary Products: To minimize pilling, opt for products with compatible formulations. Look for clues in the ingredient lists and textures—lighter, fluid textures often indicate water-based products, while thicker textures suggest oil or silicone-based formulas. For instance, using a watery sunscreen over a lightweight moisturizer may reduce the likelihood of pilling compared to using a heavy cream. 

2. Simplify Your Skincare Routine: Reducing the number of products you use can also decrease the chances of pilling. Each additional layer increases the potential for interaction between products, especially if they contain conflicting ingredients. Streamline your routine to essential steps that complement each other, such as cleansing, moisturizing, and protecting with sunscreen. 

3. Apply Thin Layers and Allow Absorption Time: Instead of applying thick layers, use small amounts of each product and ensure that each layer has fully absorbed before applying the next. This technique allows water-based products like toners and serums to penetrate the skin effectively before applying oil-based products like moisturizers or sunscreens. 

4. Consider Specific Ingredients and Formulas: Certain ingredients, such as silicones and talc, are more prone to causing pilling. Choose your skincare and makeup products wisely, paying attention to their formulations and how they interact with each other when layered. 

5. Exfoliate Regularly: Dead skin cells can contribute to pilling by mixing with skincare products. Regular exfoliation—whether physical or chemical—helps remove these dead skin cells, creating a smoother surface for product application. Be cautious not to over-exfoliate, as this can exacerbate sensitivity or irritation. 

6. Order Matters: Applying your skincare in the proper order will increase the efficacy of all products allows for better absorption. Apply in order of consistency, beginning with the lightest formula and ending with the heaviest, i.e. cleanser, toner, serum, moisturizer, SPF. 

Does Pilling Affect Skincare Effectiveness? 

Yes, pilling is not just unsightly, but can also compromise the effectiveness of your skincare routine! When products clump up, they may not distribute evenly across your skin, leading to uneven application and reduced absorption of beneficial ingredients. This uneven application is particularly critical with sunscreen, where consistent coverage is essential for adequate protection against UV rays. 

Building Your Skincare Routine 

If there's a product you absolutely love but find it isn't performing well in combination with others, the great news is that you have the flexibility to adjust the surrounding products. Crafting a routine that incorporates ingredients suited to your skin's needs and that harmonize well together may take some experimentation, but it's achievable through trial and error.   A helpful tip is that many brands formulate their products to be compatible with each other. Choosing a moisturizer, SPF, and foundation from the same brand can often streamline your routine and increase the likelihood of product compatibility, setting you on the right path for a seamless application experience. 

Book now with one of our skincare experts for your customized skincare regimen!